I forgot how much I loved Saint Petersburg. But I discovered something new, too. In the four years I’d been away, Saint Petersburg has become hipster.
My recent Russia trip marked my first visit back to Saint Petersburg since 2011, when I spent almost six months living there. This time round, I immediately found myself falling in love again with everything I’d missed – the beautiful European architecture, the bustling Nevsky Prospekt and the long summer nights.
I never really thought of Saint Petersburg as being a very cool city – that title seemed to be jealously protected by Moscow – but it seems like Russia’s second city has caught up.
So the celebrate the city’s new-found cool edge, here is the ultimate alternative guide to St. Petersburg.
Read more: First-time guide to Moscow
Hipster hotspots in St. Petersburg
Gorokhovaya Street (улица Гороховая) was the epicentre of all things hipster on my latest trip to St. Petersburg. The street is one of the original three radial roads, stretching from the Admiralty south to Zvenigorodskaya. Between the Admiralty and Griboyedov Canal, there are no end of cool bars, small restaurants and cosy cafes.
Dumskaya Street (улица Думская) is a great area for cheap bars. Popular with students, the street is home to a number of long-standing alternative dive bars where a shot of vodka will only set you back 100 roubles – that’s around £1.10 or €1.50. Dumskaya is also home to Central Station, Saint Petersburg’s gay club.
Off the beaten track in St. Petersburg
Also check out: 5 beautiful churches in St. Petersburg you can’t miss
Rooftop tours – To experience the latest craze in Saint Petersburg, you have to take to the rooftops. Over the past year or so, this Russian-take on parkour has boomed in the city, with countless Instagram accounts from resident adrenaline junkies showing off the city from new angles. (Try Boltenkov for a taster.) But if you want to get in on the fun, there are plenty of Rooftop Tours available, too. We didn’t do one so I can’t vouch for the safety of the tours, but there were signs everywhere to advertise this latest trend.
Check out this article from The Guardian for more information.
ETAGI Loft Project – Arguably the city’s premier hipster hangout, ETAGI Loft Project is an all manner of things rolled into one: in one building you can find an art gallery, an exhibition space, a hostel and a café. The venture has been going for some years now and while we didn’t manage to squeeze in a visit on my recent trip, the open bright Green Room Café was a popular choice while I was studying in the city. The scheme seems to have gone from strength to strength and now regularly holds events and concerts.
Metro: Ligovskiy Prospekt | Лиговский Проспект
Zayachiy Island (Заячий остров) – When the weather is good, head over to Zayachiy Island, home of the Peter and Paul Fortress. Here you’ll find the city beach and a small park area, which is bustling with cool young people and families whenever the sun is out.
Metro: Gorkovskaya | Горковская
Yelagin Island (Елагин остров) – Another option is Yelagin Island, a park island popular with rollerbladers and cyclists. You can even take to the island’s lake in a rowing boat.
Metro: Krestovksiy Island | Крестовский остров
Cool restaurants & cafes in St. Petersburg
If you’re looking for somewhere to eat in St. Petersburg, then your best bet is Gorokhovaya, where you’ll find plenty of restaurants and burger bars.
Candies by Coffee Room (ul. Gorokhovaya 11) is home to possibly the best Full English Breakfast I’ve had outside of the UK (take note, Germany). Candies is a cosy little café which serves up great breakfasts and decent mains. Part of the Coffee Room franchise.
I’m Thankful for Today (ul. Gorokhovaya 24) is another popular Coffee Room hangout, occupying a cosy little corner on the Griboyedov Canal. The interior is very shabby chic, with window booths, a long central table and mismatching chairs. The Big Burger is delicious.
Zoom Bar (ul. Gorokhovaya 22) is a cosy café on Gorokhovaya that serves up great light bites. Zoom is a popular place so be prepared to wait for a table. The exterior is now a colourful green garden brightening up the street.
Clean Plates Society (ul. Gorokhovaya 13) looks a bit like a nightclub at first glance (how many restaurants have a mirror ball?) but inside you’ll find a relaxed restaurant-cum-bar with a small but appetising menu and lots of Bohemian charm. A good place for dinner and drinks.
Alternative bars & clubs in St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg has plenty of great bars to choose from over a few different neighbourhoods, so take your pick. Za zdrovye!
Craft Brew Café (Malaya Morskaya ul, 15)
One of the most surprising finds on our trip was Craft Brew Café, a mere stone’s throw from our hostel. The chic bar has a large selection of both foreign and domestic beers and ciders, with an extensive array of options from Saint Petersburg. The staff weren’t particularly knowledgeable about their drink selection but if you know what you want, it’s a great place to go. There is also a decent-looking food menu.
Dacha – ul. Dumskaya 9
A stalwart on the cheap student scene and infamous with local expats, Dacha is a typical dive bar with a decent atmosphere. Though lively most nights of the week, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are the best.
Fidel – ul. Dumskaya 5
Two doors down from Dacha, Fidel offers a more extensive menu and a more exciting atmosphere, though it definitely exudes the same more-shabby-than-chic charm. We went on a Thursday and there was a DJ playing anything from techno to S Club 7.
Mod – Griboyedov Canal 7
Another old haunt we couldn’t revisit, Mod is a cool but pricey club during the winter, which opens up a lovely rooftop terrace with BBQ in the summer. Entrance to the terrace was free on my last visit, though this may have changed. The perfect place to enjoy the white nights.
Hipster hostels in St. Petersburg
Though it lacks the choice of Moscow, St Petersburg is home to some great hostels.
Simple Hostel is where I stayed most recently in St. Petersburg. Located directly on Gorokhovaya, the hostel is right in the heart of the city’s historic centre and in a prime location for checking out the bars and restaurants listed above. The hostel was small but welcoming with modern bathrooms and handy storage.
Soul Kitchen – a design-led hostel with hipster-friendly interiors and fantastic reviews. I’ve never stayed here but I have heard good things and the website makes it look lovely.
Would you visit Saint Petersburg as a hipster?
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