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Hostel Celica: a night behind bars

Some hostels are all the same. Some are a little bit more memorable.

And some offer you a lot more than accommodation.

Hostel Celica is definitely the latter, serving up a slice of local history, a thriving part of Ljubjana’s art scene and one of the most popular hangouts in the übercool Metelkova district. A former prison, the hostel today offers some of the most hospitable budget accommodation in Slovenia’s capital.

History & ideology

The colourful Metelkova district today

Ok let’s start at the beginning. Celica Hostel and the whole Metelkova area was, up until Slovenia’s independence in 1991, Yugoslav military barracks – the hostel building itself was a military prison. Artists hoping to the turn the area into a cultural centre soon began legal proceedings to do so but were forced to squat in the building when the government attempted to bulldoze them in 1993.

This circular window was preserved as a lasting insignia of a bulldozer

Over the next few years the government attempted to drive out the artists and squatters, but the creative group persisted, finally gaining approval for their plans in 2001. In 2003, Hostel Celica welcomed its first guests.

The building’s turbulent history is chronicled in the on-site museum, where you can also glimpse two isolation prison cells which were left untouched during the renovation.

The cells

In fact, no real effort was made to try and cover up the building’s former use. Instead of knocking through cell walls and creating larger rooms, artists were invited to transform each cell individually, turning formerly oppressive spaces into literal works of art.

A group of 80 international and Slovenian artists were basically given free reign and a blank canvas to create what they saw fit. Some were keen to preserve the feel of the former prison – as above – while others were more creative.

The Oriental-themed room above features a custom made mattress, for which it’s impossible to find sheets the manager informed me.

One cell was left empty and designated the meditation room, which features the holy books of the world’s five major religions, as well as an empty space, intended for any guest to ascribe their beliefs.

One of the hostel’s dorm rooms

On the third floor, guests can also find a series of dorm rooms and communal spaces open to anyone.

Cultural centre

Aside from Celica’s accommodation, you’ll also find a number of other rooms and spaces, which the term ‘communal area’ just doesn’t do justice.

An Oriental-inspired chill out area

As you can see, Celica focuses great importance on art, so it’s not surprising to find an art gallery on the ground floor. The space features rotating exhibits, from both local and international artists, however March is normally reserved for art students who are showing their works for the first time. In this way, Celica helps to nurture the spirit that it was founded in – the need for artistic expression.

Art in Metelkova

The same space also plays host to guest speakers and talks on topics related to travel and more (the week of my arrival there were guest lectures on both Iceland and The Seychelles). Guests will also find a full programme of different events, including games nights, gigs and food tastings. On my visit, there was a really live set from a local band and it looked like it was the place to be for Ljubljana’s young people.

You’ll also find a café, bar and garden on-site. And I must say the food is really, really decent.

Bar area

The people

It might be a cliché, but the people of Celica really do make a huge impact on your stay. On arrival, I was greeted by Tanja and given a tour of the building (a luxury not just reserved for bloggers – guests and non-guests can happily request a tour) and it became very clear very quickly that the staff really believe in the ‘mission’ and ideology of the building and the spirit in which it was saved from ruin.

Tanja and the rest of the team talk about the building with genuine enthusiasm. And later the afternoon, all staff were busy engaging in some team building – to plant a herb garden.

Pros & cons

Pros

Cons

Summary

Hostel Celica is far more than a hostel. In fact, it’s far more than a prison hostel. It’s a living, breathing part of Ljubljana’s history. After even a short stay, it’s obvious to see how well-used this cultural centre is by the local community – you are just as likely to hear Slovenian spoken as any other language while having lunch and you’ll see teens who know the place better than you while enjoying the city’s latest new band.

I would fully recommend the place for your stay in the capital. Ljubljana’s central sights are easy to reach on foot and you are in the prime position for both the train station and the bus station – just a 5 minute walk away.

Read more about exciting Metelkova district and hipster Ljubljana here.

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