If you’re planning to go hiking in Durmitor National Park, Žabljak is most likely where you will stay. A lively mountain resort town, Zabljak is tailor-made to cater to any outdoor pursuit, be it hiking, rafting, canyoning, skiing or simply just instagramming the photogenic Black Lake. But despite its small size, Žabljak has quite a lot to offer. Here’s how to make the most of three days in Durmitor National Park.
About Žabljak
Located on the edge of the Durmitor National Park in mountainous Northern Montenegro, Žabljak is actually the highest town in the entire Balkans and as such, has made quite a name for itself as a premier ski destination. But the town is much more than that. We found a bustling little resort town offering almost everything you could think of – which makes it even more surprising that it doesn’t even get a mention in the Lonely Planet Montenegro guide.
Three days in Durmitor National Park
So what did we do in Žabljak? We hiked.
On our first evening, we visited the town’s biggest draw – the Black Lake. Posterchild for the Durmitor National Park, if not Northern Montenegro as a whole, the lake is a slice of beautiful piercing blue set against the dramatic backdrop of thick forests and the imposing so-called Bear Peak. Our first visit was during one of the frequent rain showers we experienced, but we nevertheless went for a walk circling the lake (10km in total, including the walk to and from the town centre).
The Black Lake, just outside Zabljak
Durmitor National Park still looking beautiful during a rain shower
It’s worth noting that entry to Durmitor National Park costs €3/day or €6 for a three-day pass.
On day two, we tackled Bobotov Kuk, the highest peak in the region and formerly believed to be the highest point in the whole country. (Read about the hike in more detail here.) After getting back, we then went to a viewpoint to gaze out of the ridiculously large and unfathomably deep Tara Canyon.
On the way up Bobotov Kuk
Half way up the ascent…
On day three, we went on a hike taking in three lakes (and therefore very practically known as ‘the Three Lakes Hike’). These lakes were the Black Lake again, the beautiful and secluded Snake Lake (which was named for its leeches and not for actual snakes) and finally Jablan Lake, which we viewed from the very, very high ridge above it. From the ridge we had an incredible view of the whole area, including all three lakes we’d seen. Definitely one of the best hikes I’ve ever done.
Where to eat in Žabljak
Home to a permanent population of just 1,723 people, Žabljak nevertheless boasts quite a buzz. In fact, it feels like there could be more restaurants than people.
The restaurants themselves all seem to offer up the best of what the region has to offer – and at really affordable prices. As Žabljak is a very small town, almost all of the town’s restaurants are located on the same street (along with almost everything else).
Locally-caught fish in Oro restaurant
Konoba Luna
‘Konoba’ is a regional word, usually used to describe a traditional or family-run restaurant. With its wooden-clad, rustic interior, Luna is no exception. Big meat dishes are the order of the day here: I got a huge mixed-grill for just €7, which included a gigantic pork chop, four sausages, a chicken breast, bacon and a turkey burger. There’s a lot of seating and cheap beer.
Zlatni Papagaj
A few doors down, Zlatni Papagaj (or the Golden Parrot) also has a cosy, rustic interior but it feels a bit fancier. They also have a lot of meat dishes, but we opted to try something from the extensive pizza menu. The pizzas were great, very generous and all served with a dollop of sour cream in the middle which was actually great. Pizzas were all around €7-9.
O’ro
Definitely a lot more up-market than either Konoba Luna or Zlatni Papagaj, Oro is fashioned exactly as I imagine a Swiss chalet in the Alps to look. They have a lovely big outdoor seating area out front and a very rustic-chic interior. Here we had trout, the local delicacy for around €14, which was well worth it.
Unnamed Bakery
Right next to O’ro opposite the Voli supermarket is a great little bakery that I didn’t get the name of. Like anywhere in the Balkans, they do a cracking burek, as well as pre-made ham baguette sandwiches, which are ideal for picking up in the morning before a day’s hike.
Where to stay in Žabljak: Hikers Den
If you’re planning to hike in the Durmitor National Park, Hikers Den is the only place you need to consider staying.
Hiking is what brought us to Žabljak so it was only fitting that we stayed in the aptly-named Hikers Den. The hostel was originally recommended to me by a Dutch traveller I met while in Albania last year, who said it was the best place he’d ever stayed and I have to say, if you’re planning to hike in the Durmitor National Park, here is the only place you need to consider staying.
On arrival, owner Alex sat down with us armed with a map and highlighter in order to – in his own words – plan our trip. We told him all we had figured out was that we wanted to do the Bobotov Kuk hike. He then gave us another route for the day after (the Ice Cave hike), although we ultimately asked for something a bit less challenging (i.e. less vertical) after tackling Bobotov Kuk. He even sent us off for a gentle 10km hike that very evening to ‘stretch our legs’.
Alex also sat us all down for a briefing before each hike, plotting our route on the MAPS.ME app and explaining any possible risks. Alex is a member of the local mountain rescue service and as such makes sure that each of his guests leaves fully prepared.
Durmitor National Park in a rain, but still looking beautiful
He also organised a drive out to a viewpoint of the Tara Canyon for us. For other guests he organised rafting and canyoning trips. In short, he took care of everything to make sure we made the most of our time in Žabljak.
By the end of our stay, it’s fair to say we were pretty knackered (but not too tired to leave on the 05.15 bus to Kotor) but it felt like we had fully made the most of our time in Durmitor National Park. So if you’re looking to add some adventure to your Balkan backpacking itinerary, make sure to factor in a few days in Žabljak.
More from this trip: Two-week Balkan backpacking itinerary
Hi, thanks for the valuable info! 🙂
By the small bakery near O’ro restaurant, do you mean this one: https://goo.gl/maps/rMkHLS9efNHHb4wF6 ?
Exactly – that’s the one. Thanks for sharing, Marina!
Hi John. Great write up, Žabljak looks great.
If I visit I would be doing so using public transport. So, are there many walks you can do from the village itself? Or is there a transport system in the village to the start of some of these walks?
Also, I would be planning to get to Žabljak from Tirana, then go to Kotor after. Info on bus systems seem scarce. What company or websites sites you use?
Thanks!
Thanks for your comment, Alistair! We were also there using public transport only and we had absolutely no issue. I would say there are plenty of walks starting from Žabljak itself. My favourite was the three-lake hike, which I never got around to posting about in more detail. Otherwise, I would see if your accommodation can arrange transport for you – when I was there, there was less of a local transport system and more a series of lifts and car-shares with locals, which our hostel arranged for us. For transport between cities, we bought tickets in person on the day or 1-2 days in advance, you can read more here: https://www.johnthego.com/2018/09/16/backpacking-balkans-itinerary-bosnia-to-macedonia/