What to see and do in Shkoder in 24 hours? Luckily this is a question I have the answer to. In fact, Shkoder in Northern Albania belongs to a very short ā but very privileged ā list of cities that I have actually visited more than once. And I would happily go back again. I first visited in June 2017 during a week-long trip around Albania, before passing through again in August 2018 on a bigger Balkans trip. I spent just under 24 hours in the city during both trips.
Shkoder (or Shkodra) has ā at least in my mind ā all the makings of a popular future destination in the Balkans. It sits in a great location, easily accessible on a variety of Balkans itineraries: passing through from Montenegro to Kosovo (or vice versa), a road trip along the Adriatic coastline, or simply as a kicking off point for hiking in the Accursed Mountains and taking the Koman Lake Ferry.
Whatever your reason for visiting, here is my essential guide to a visit to Shkoder/Shkodra.
6 things to see and do in Shkoder
1. Cycling in Shkoder: One of the great things to do in Shkoder (and one of the most popular) is to rent a bike to see the city on your own pair of wheels. Cycling was very popular during the communist era of Albania (it allowed people to get around, but prevented them getting too far) and remains so today, meaning cars are very aware of cyclists and will not try to run you down. In fact, it feels like bikes rules the roads in Skhoder.
Iām pretty sure all hostels will have a fleet of creaking but useable push/bikes for rent starting at around ā¬3/day.
2. Lake Skadar: Itās practically a criminal offense to visit the city of Shkoder without seeing the lake it gave its name to. The lake is the largest in the Balkans and is an important source of biodiversity in the region. Lake Skadar is within easy reach of the city via bike and has a fairly decent paved road running along most of its southwestern shore, leading to the border with Montenegro. Cycle to the village of Shiroko, where youāll find several little pubs and bars along the shore serving cocktails and seafood.
Be warned: waste management in Albania is, quite frankly, shocking and youāll see a lot of plastic pollution around the country. Unfortunately Lake Skadar is no different and you will definitely encounter rubbish and trash littered along the coastline.
3. Rozafa Fortress: Shkoderās other big blockbuster attraction is the Rozafa Fortress, fortuitously located on your bike ride from the lake, meaning you can easily swing-by en-route. By far the best time to get here is at dusk, when the lighting is perfect and you can see for literally miles and miles ā from Albaniaās flat landscape to the South and to the intimidating mountains in the East. The grounds of the castle are huge and sprawling and you are free (after paying 200 lek entry) to explore to your heartās content.
A gigantic Albanian flag (or two) proudly flies atop the fortress and youāll have plenty of opportunity for selfies from the ramparts ā health and safety is not a top concern in Albania.
Unfortunately, very little printed information is given, so you have to use your imagination slightly. I think a few hostels organise tours here, but the one we saw seemed very long and detailed and the tourists on it looked more like hostages. Personally, I think thereās something very nice about exploring the ruins independently.
4. Stroll along Rroga Kole Idromeno & Rroga 28 Nentori: These two streets form the lively centre of Shkoder. On my first visit, the pedestrianised rroga Kole Idromeno felt like a breath of fresh air after my very brief but hectic first impressions of Tirana. Youāll find a lot of cafes and bars here with outdoor seating.
5. Photography museum: On my last visit, a girl in the hostel recommended a visit here (we unfortunately did not have time), as Skhoder was one of the first places in the region to have a small photography scene.
6. Rozafa Sea Food: I really am not much of a foodie, but I know an amazing restaurant when it smacks me in the face ā and Shkoder is home to one of my very favourites. A visit here is truly one of the top things to see and do in Shkoder. Simply put: if youāre in Shkoder, you have to eat here. More below.
More than 24 hours in Shkoder?
Take the Koman Ferry to Valbone: Of course, the main reason for visiting Shkoder is to take the Koman Ferry to Valbone. Read more here.
Theth as a day trip:Ā Thanks to a newly-paved road, itās also possible to visit Theth as a daytrip from Shkoder or even as an overnight there-and-back trip. In my mind, the round trip of several nights via the Koman Ferry and hiking from Valbone Valley is definitely worth it.
Best places to eat in Skhoder
Rozafa Sea Food: In my opinion, this is definitely the best restaurant in Shkoder. It was certainly the best food we ate on our Balkans trip last year. On my first visit to Shkoder, I had the place practically to myself, but on our recent visit, the place was heaving ā and for good reason. The seafood there is incredible. The two of us went all out and ordered seafood risotto (perfectly garlicky), grilled shrimp, salad, fried calamari and 4 glasses of wine ā all for just ā¬25! And we couldnāt believe how tasty it was. The restaurant is kept very cool (there is a fresh fish counter too) so you might get a bit chilly. Rozafa Sea Food on TripAdvisor.
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Sofra: This is a good option if you want to try some more typically Albanian food (although Albanians themselves seem to prefer Italian) Itās located on rroga Kole Idromeno, the main pedestrianised street and was recommended by our hostel. For ā¬6 at lunch, I got a starter of grilled vegetables and local cheese, plus a modest but tasty beef risotto, which was sizzling hot when it arrived. Sofra on Tripadvisor.
Pizzeria Bllok is also a decent pizzeria I ate at on my first visit, which has decent portions and outdoor seating.
Hostels in Shkoder: where to stay
On my two visit to Skhoder I stayed in two different hostels, which I think are probably the main budget options in the city.
Backpackers Hostel (Mi Casa es Su Casa): Confusingly, this hostel seems to have two names which it uses interchangeably. Itās located on one of the main thoroughfares, but you wouldnāt know it ā it is set back from the road and has a peaceful garden and patio for chilling out in the evening and daytime. The beds are sturdy and comfortable and the location is very central ā very close to the bus stops for Tirana.
Wanderers Hostel: On the face of it, Wanderers doesnāt offer much more than Backpackers ā it also has a lovely little courtyard and is located in a quiet and secluded setting, despite being close to the centre. In my opinion though it has a much nicer vibe, with friendlier staff and more of an atmosphere. However, the rooms and beds were probably not as comfortable as those at Backpackers. It still won out as my favourite though.
Have you been to Shkoder? What were your thoughts?
Those mountains! Such an unexpected sight for Albania (in my dull mind, obv)
Albania is actually just full of mountains, but the Accursed Moutains are really something else. It looks just like Austria. Absolutely beautiful.
I’m planning trip to Albania, and this was very interesting post! Was the road from Shkoder to Theth in so good condition that its even possible to drive with a rental car (I have read that a mini-bus/jeep transportation is only option because road is not doable by regular car)?
The road is paved and smooth – but only up to a point. Once you start to enter the valley itself, the road is unpaved, rocky, very narrow and very windy! I think you would need a pretty decent car or a 4×4 to manage it. It’s definitely not something I’d want to drive myself.
We were also traveling in the city of Shkodra. For me a city of contrasts, because the difference between rich and poor is quite big.
Jochen
Great to hear you enjoyed the city, Jochen! It’s definitely one of my favourites in the Balkans – the atmosphere is just so chilled.
Oh that is such a shame that you missed the photography museum, that was one of my favorite things… and of course the views from the castle at sunset.
Two great tips, thanks! Will have to add to my list for next time š