What to see and do in Shkoder in 24 hours? Luckily this is a question I have the answer to. In fact, Shkoder in Northern Albania belongs to a very short – but very privileged – list of cities that I have actually visited more than once. And I would happily go back again. I first visited in June 2017 during a week-long trip around Albania, before passing through again in August 2018 on a bigger Balkans trip. I spent just under 24 hours in the city during both trips.
Shkoder (or Shkodra) has – at least in my mind – all the makings of a popular future destination in the Balkans. It sits in a great location, easily accessible on a variety of Balkans itineraries: passing through from Montenegro to Kosovo (or vice versa), a road trip along the Adriatic coastline, or simply as a kicking off point for hiking in the Accursed Mountains and taking the Koman Lake Ferry.
Whatever your reason for visiting, here is my essential guide to a visit to Shkoder/Shkodra.
6 things to see and do in Shkoder
1. Cycling in Shkoder: One of the great things to do in Shkoder (and one of the most popular) is to rent a bike to see the city on your own pair of wheels. Cycling was very popular during the communist era of Albania (it allowed people to get around, but prevented them getting too far) and remains so today, meaning cars are very aware of cyclists and will not try to run you down. In fact, it feels like bikes rules the roads in Skhoder.
I’m pretty sure all hostels will have a fleet of creaking but useable push/bikes for rent starting at around €3/day.
2. Lake Skadar: It’s practically a criminal offense to visit the city of Shkoder without seeing the lake it gave its name to. The lake is the largest in the Balkans and is an important source of biodiversity in the region. Lake Skadar is within easy reach of the city via bike and has a fairly decent paved road running along most of its southwestern shore, leading to the border with Montenegro. Cycle to the village of Shiroko, where you’ll find several little pubs and bars along the shore serving cocktails and seafood.
Be warned: waste management in Albania is, quite frankly, shocking and you’ll see a lot of plastic pollution around the country. Unfortunately Lake Skadar is no different and you will definitely encounter rubbish and trash littered along the coastline.
A very sweaty me at the fortress
3. Rozafa Fortress: Shkoder’s other big blockbuster attraction is the Rozafa Fortress, fortuitously located on your bike ride from the lake, meaning you can easily swing-by en-route. By far the best time to get here is at dusk, when the lighting is perfect and you can see for literally miles and miles – from Albania’s flat landscape to the South and to the intimidating mountains in the East. The grounds of the castle are huge and sprawling and you are free (after paying 200 lek entry) to explore to your heart’s content.
A gigantic Albanian flag (or two) proudly flies atop the fortress and you’ll have plenty of opportunity for selfies from the ramparts – health and safety is not a top concern in Albania.
Unfortunately, very little printed information is given, so you have to use your imagination slightly. I think a few hostels organise tours here, but the one we saw seemed very long and detailed and the tourists on it looked more like hostages. Personally, I think there’s something very nice about exploring the ruins independently.
4. Stroll along Rroga Kole Idromeno & Rroga 28 Nentori: These two streets form the lively centre of Shkoder. On my first visit, the pedestrianised rroga Kole Idromeno felt like a breath of fresh air after my very brief but hectic first impressions of Tirana. You’ll find a lot of cafes and bars here with outdoor seating.
Central Shkoder
5. Photography museum: On my last visit, a girl in the hostel recommended a visit here (we unfortunately did not have time), as Skhoder was one of the first places in the region to have a small photography scene.
6. Rozafa Sea Food: I really am not much of a foodie, but I know an amazing restaurant when it smacks me in the face – and Shkoder is home to one of my very favourites. A visit here is truly one of the top things to see and do in Shkoder. Simply put: if you’re in Shkoder, you have to eat here. More below.
More than 24 hours in Shkoder?
Take the Koman Ferry to Valbone: Of course, the main reason for visiting Shkoder is to take the Koman Ferry to Valbone. Read more here.
Theth as a day trip: Thanks to a newly-paved road, it’s also possible to visit Theth as a daytrip from Shkoder or even as an overnight there-and-back trip. In my mind, the round trip of several nights via the Koman Ferry and hiking from Valbone Valley is definitely worth it.
Hiking in Valbone Valley, easily visited from Shkoder
Best places to eat in Skhoder
Rozafa Sea Food: In my opinion, this is definitely the best restaurant in Shkoder. It was certainly the best food we ate on our Balkans trip last year. On my first visit to Shkoder, I had the place practically to myself, but on our recent visit, the place was heaving – and for good reason. The seafood there is incredible. The two of us went all out and ordered seafood risotto (perfectly garlicky), grilled shrimp, salad, fried calamari and 4 glasses of wine – all for just €25! And we couldn’t believe how tasty it was. The restaurant is kept very cool (there is a fresh fish counter too) so you might get a bit chilly. Rozafa Sea Food on TripAdvisor.
[easy-image-collage id=5812]
Sofra: This is a good option if you want to try some more typically Albanian food (although Albanians themselves seem to prefer Italian) It’s located on rroga Kole Idromeno, the main pedestrianised street and was recommended by our hostel. For €6 at lunch, I got a starter of grilled vegetables and local cheese, plus a modest but tasty beef risotto, which was sizzling hot when it arrived. Sofra on Tripadvisor.
Pizzeria Bllok is also a decent pizzeria I ate at on my first visit, which has decent portions and outdoor seating.
Hostels in Shkoder: where to stay
On my two visit to Skhoder I stayed in two different hostels, which I think are probably the main budget options in the city.
Backpackers Hostel (Mi Casa es Su Casa): Confusingly, this hostel seems to have two names which it uses interchangeably. It’s located on one of the main thoroughfares, but you wouldn’t know it – it is set back from the road and has a peaceful garden and patio for chilling out in the evening and daytime. The beds are sturdy and comfortable and the location is very central – very close to the bus stops for Tirana.
Wanderers Hostel: On the face of it, Wanderers doesn’t offer much more than Backpackers – it also has a lovely little courtyard and is located in a quiet and secluded setting, despite being close to the centre. In my opinion though it has a much nicer vibe, with friendlier staff and more of an atmosphere. However, the rooms and beds were probably not as comfortable as those at Backpackers. It still won out as my favourite though.
The courtyard of the Wanderers Hostel in Shkoder
Have you been to Shkoder? What were your thoughts?